It occurred to me the other day that every Londoner has their own London. The reason this occurred to me was that I had to meet a friend in Charing Cross station – a big train station in central London right by Trafalgar Square – on Friday evening. And on my way there I realised that, even though I’ve lived in this city for five years now, I’d never once been to Charing Cross station before.
London is like this; we all have our own pockets that we inhabit, and unless we are particularly intrepid, we rarely stray from them. My pockets are the part of West London (Barons Court/Hammersmith/Earls Court) where I live, and the part of central London (Holborn/Bank/Chancery Lane) where I work. Most days, I travel from one to the other, and that’s it. I am also familiar with my former pockets – Knightsbridge, from when I worked in Harrods; Wandsworth, from when I worked there; Dulwich, where I lived before I moved in with J; and the incredibly terrifying and dangerous part of North London – Turnpike Lane – where I lived when I first moved to London and couldn’t afford anywhere better, and where I once saw somebody stabbed with a pair of scissors in a bus shelter.
All of these places, I could confidently navigate without a map. I know where the good places are to get a sandwich. I know which buses go where. But drop me down in another bit of London and I’m as clueless as a tourist. I mean, I can do the central part. I can find my way from Piccadilly Circus to Leicester Square without too much trouble. But I will cling nervously to my A-Z in Notting Hill, or Regent’s Park, or Shoreditch.
The problem, and also the joy, of London, is that it’s not laid out in a handy grid system. It’s just an enormous spaghetti-bowl-like mess of winding roads and unexpected corners and wrong turns. So unless you actually know a part of it, have walked the streets regularly, and have a mental image in your head of how it all fits together, there’s no way to bluff it. There is no shame in having lived here five years, or ten or twenty, and still having to use an A-Z in unfamiliar parts of the city. In fact I don’t know a Londoner who doesn’t own an A-Z. We’d be hopelessly lost without it.
But, be all that as it may, I feel slightly sorry to acknowledge that I live on the edge of this enormous, fascinating city, and yet am only really comfortably familiar with small parts of it. When I first moved here I had barely enough money to eat, let alone entertain myself. But I had a bus pass, and the buses were heated (it was November) so when I had some free time I would go down to Victoria Bus Station, hop on a random bus, and see where it took me. I got to know the city that way, learned how it all fit together, began to see it as a bustling whole rather than disparate stops on a tube map. That was fun. I should do it again.
So 2008 is going to be my year of the city. I am going to go out and find new bits of it. I’m going to work out for myself the best place to get a sandwich in Shoreditch. I’m going to find my favourite bench to sit on in Regent’s Park. I am going to put my A-Z away in my bag, and explore new places without worrying about getting lost or being late or which bus I should take to get home.
I’m looking forward to it.

7 comments
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January 6, 2008 at 3:07 pm
teabelly
I’m going to use this lovely post of yours to admit now that the last time I came to see you I got lost on the way home. Like, mega lost. I decided to go a different way to the tube and believed in my head I knew the way. And I did, I just totally overshot it. I walked around for at least 20 minutes before finally getting myself back on track and breathing a huge sigh of relief when I saw Baron’s Court. And yes I had my A-Z but I refused to look at it because ‘I could do it myself’. Um, yeah.
But yes, I’m the same. Certain parts of London are totally alien to me. Mostly the southern bit.
January 6, 2008 at 7:49 pm
Bex
I recommend buying the Time Out Diary if you’re going to do this. It’s got so much information on the city in a handy pocket-sized format complete with maps and a notes and addresses section. It’s full of obscure museums and restaurants and cafés. And then should that sandwich in Shoreditch give you food poisoning, it also tells you the nearest A&E. I’ve had one every year since 1996 (except 2002 when I was meant to live somewhere else but soon gave up and returned) and I would feel lost in London without it. Also currently half-price, so bonus!
January 7, 2008 at 10:37 am
felinity
My brother has just moved to Turnpike Lane (hopefully not the stabby bit — it seemed quite nice when I went to visit!). Can you remember any non-terrifying places to get a sandwich there? He’s still scoping the place out for ‘the’ cafe to visit on a regular basis.
January 7, 2008 at 1:16 pm
plattie
Felinity, it’s been a long time since I was there, so maybe it’s got better! There is a reasonably good shopping centre and cinema complex by Wood Green tube (it has a TK Maxx! Score!) and lots of very handy 99p shops on the High Road. Also there is a bar on Ducketts Common that looks like a very sedate and unremarkable sort of bar but is actually a gay club, and I once went there unsuspectingly with some friends and got quite drunk on cheap wine and ended up serenading the whole bar singing ‘Doh a Dear’ with a drag queen. I can’t remember what it’s called, unfortunately, but thought I’d mention it anyway.
January 7, 2008 at 5:35 pm
Stephanie
I feel the same way about Phoenix. You can drop me in downtown and I’d be able to find my way out, but put me in Chandler and I’m lost.
January 7, 2008 at 7:03 pm
Tracey S. Rosenberg
I hate looking at maps because I never want to be mistaken for a tourist, but in London I cheerfully pull out my A-Z, knowing that even the locals cling to theirs. (But I don’t look at it in the really touristy parts of town because, you know, locals never go to those. And anyway those tend to be well-signposted.)
January 8, 2008 at 1:07 pm
tadeudz
London terrifies and excites me. The bus tour sounds like fun!